Here is an article I wrote for the latest issue of Missy/Ink Magazine which is available across Canada at Chapters Indigo!! It's called...
Artistic Vanity
Primarily
associated with and commercially directed toward women, fashion and makeup
artistry are of very few mediums in which women are granted more freedom than
men. So it is not surprising that fashion and makeup are also treated as
culturally unimportant or shallow. Society has coded these types of expression
as distinct from other art; calling us cultured if we attend art galleries and
shallow if we read a fashion magazine. This hardly seems coincidental;
dismissing fashion as vain prevents it from ever gaining the same cultural
respect as other expressive outlets. But the way my body is cloaked and my face
is painted is art. Art is creative, it is political, and its influence is
far-reaching and long-lasting.
In
order to make sense of the world around us, humans created language. We
assigned meaning to arbitrary sounds, symbols and behavior. And, just as we’ve
assigned a specific meaning to the word “suit,” that of garments of the same
cloth meant to be worn together, the clothing itself has taken on another
meaning, that of power, influence and masculinity. There is nothing inherently
powerful or masculine to a 3-piece suit, though. It has simply had that meaning
assigned to it. This kind of coding can and does change over time, when styles
fluctuate in popularity, so does their apparent appropriateness, or even what
it is thought to represent. What we wear is a statement, interpreted through
the coding of our time, social norms, and ideals of beauty. Fashion is a language
without words. When I flip through the pages of a fashion magazine, I am
admiring the poetry of artistic expression. But, rather than a single painter
creating an image, a fashion spread is more often a fusion of individual
designers, stylists, makeup and hair artists collaborating to form a single
frame. There is a synthesis of expression, a mix of mediums toward a common
artistic end. Fashion as a language speaks loudly because it is both personal
and collaborative.
Art
is often considered significant due to its political message or history.
Fashion is thought to be merely ornamental, an attempt at beauty, which lacks
the depth to be considered a proper art form. The truth is fashion has
historically played an ongoing role in the politics of gender. From the
carefully chosen jewelry of suffragettes (green, white and violet jewels as
shorthand of their imperative: ‘Give Women Votes’) to the famous shoulder pads
and pantsuits of the 1980’s female workforce, style is a political statement.
It shapes how we are read and categorized in the real world. It often
determines our ability to get a job, a promotion, and respect. Media
consistently reinforces the idea that how we dress indicates how seriously we
will be taken, whether by employers, customers or potential suitors. The media
also lets us know that how we dress is being viewed through the male gaze;
coding our style through the sexualisation and objectification of our bodies.
This can be seen throughout society, from dress codes for young girls in schools
to the constant comments on the clothing of female politicians to the
fetishization of cultural dress (see: sexy geisha, for example). But fashion is more than sexual (often it is
far from it), it is an inherently political statement because it is a statement
about our bodies and ourselves.
However,
the fashion and beauty industries are certainly not without flaws. The
impossible ideals often sold to us through fashion complicate its place in the
art world. If art is raw, expressive and political, then why do fashion spreads
suggest that beauty comes only in the form of a white, skinny body? It’s
important to realize that while fashion may be problematic in its ideals (as
are many aspects of society) its ability to influence should not be dismissed
too quickly. Creating what I find beautiful through style, makeup, and hair may
seem a small act against an industry of unattainable ideals, but it is an act
of self-expression, of political weight, and it has the ability to repurpose a
language we’ve all been taught. Fashion is a powerful weapon – double-edged in
its ability to both restrain and empower us.
By
looking at fashion as art, we are no longer required to view it as law. In
other words, fashion does not need to look like it does on the catwalk to be
beautiful, and it does not even need to be beautiful to be provocative,
creative, political, or significant. Not all art is beautiful and rarely is any
one piece of art beautiful in the same way as another. Taking fashion seriously
as an art form means allowing ourselves and each other to express agency
through our bodies without requiring conformity. Fashion is art because beauty is not required, it is created. And we are all our own artists.
This is so great! People belittle fashion as 'frivolous' so often. I've frequently been told that my interest in it is shallow or a waste of time. But fashion can be every bit as influential as any other art form, especially when we make space for the side of it that is less commercially driven and less focused on profit, convention and likeability.
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